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Written by Leah Greenstein/special to the World
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Monday, 05 June 2006 |
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It would not be an exaggeration to say that rosé is like the redheaded stepchild of American wine — or, at least, like the Manic Panic New Rose — colored belle at a Republican ball. White Zinfandel, the ubiquitous, saccharine pink wine that dominated tables (not to mention the cardboard industry) in the 1980s, is what most people think of when they hear rosé, and is largely responsible for the wine’s less-than-stellar reputation.
Its cloying sweetness means it “might as well be a vodka cocktail,” says Nate Breznau of Tahoe City’s Time for Wine. It’s far from representative of rosé, a style of wine enjoyed throughout the world for palate-cleansing crispness and bright acidity.
A rosé is a rosé, is not a rosé
So if White Zin isn’t really rosé — not in the sense that the French or Italians would think of it anyway — what is?
As previously mentioned, rosés are generally dry, crisp and highly acidic wines made from red wine grapes. Red wines get their color (and some of their tannins) through prolonged contact with the grapes’ skins. When making rosé, winemakers remove the skins almost immediately. The brief maceration imparts color, a bit of tannin for dryness and some depth. The wines are then either put on oak or fermented in stainless steel, sometimes both.
The resulting color varies, “pink” being a fairly relative term. Rosés range from pale copper to apricot to translucent raspberry, and every shade in between. How much color depends on how long the winemaker let the juice sit with the skins.
The outcome?
“Wines that are refreshing, but with body,” says Dean at Truckee’s Pour House. “That combination of mouthfeel and refreshing is not common.”
Rosés are best drunk young and chilled, but not so cold as to lose some of the wine’s more subtle characteristics. Fresh fruit, spice, minerality and occasional floral notes are just some of what rosé drinkers can expect.
Since rosés can be made from any red wine grape, it’s common to see them made from a region’s dominant grape or grapes and paired with traditional foods. The rosés in Provence, in Southern France, are typically made with Mourvèdre, but may also be made with Grenache, Syrah or Cinsault, or a blend of one or more of these grapes. They go great with Provençal favorites, like bouillabaisse.
And, since the wines are lighter in body they’re also perfect for summer, pairing well with grilled foods, fish and other summer fare. Think Shakespeare on the Lake, a backyard barbecue or your favorite restaurant’s deck... Then, think pink.
It’s not easy to overcome the pink wine cringe, but it’s well worth it. To make it easier, here are a few selections you can find locally that might lift your spirits, tempt your palate and win over your inner wine snob.
Chateau Routas Rose Rouviere 2005
This wine, available at Tahoe City’s Time For Wine, is 40 percent Grenache, 30 percent Syrah and 30 percent Cinsault. It comes from Provence. It’s a bit richer than previous vintages, but is still all about finesse. It has a berry, floral nose and boasts crisp apple and red berry notes with hints of anise. Very much a French rosé, this wine is full of flavor, but still dry, with a tight finish. ($13.50 at Time for Wine)
2005 Glass Willamette Valley White Pinot Noir
Glass is a small-production, single vineyard rosé from J.K. Carriere in Oregon’s Willamette Valley. Made from 100 percent Pinot Noir, this wine is unusual, from the color down to the finish. Apricot-hued, with earth, mineral and fruit on the nose, this rosé has a softer mouthfeel and a little toast in addition to strawberry and citrus flavors, particularly lemon. It’s got a longer, more tannic finish that lingers and an acidity that drives you to the next sip. ($21.50 at Time For Wine)
2004 Sutton Cellars Rattlesnake Rosé
Made from 85 percent Syrah and 15 percent Carignane from California’s Russian River appellation, Rattlesnale Rosé is an unfined, unfiltered native yeast example from one of Sonoma County’s boutique wineries. Its firm acidity makes it perfect for spicier foods. This rosé is earthy and spicy and round with hints of and bright red fruit. ($14.99 at the Pour House)
2005 Domaine de Fontsainte, Corbieres Gris de Gris
Coming to the Pour House for summer, this wine was also on the San Francisco Chronicle’s list of top imported rosés. The soft berry nose doesn’t nearly hint at the lush melon and strawberry flavors and minty coolness of this French dynamo. Refreshing and acidic, this wine is a sure-fire fave. ($12.99 at the Pour House)
Pairing food with rosé
Trying to think of what to eat with that rosé you just picked up? Try this recipe for a cold beet and yogurt soup, purloined from the fantastic book on an epicurian diet, “French Women Don’t Get Fat” by Mireille Guiliano.
4 medium beets, boiled until tender, then peeled and quartered
2 cups yogurt
2 shallots, peeled and minced
Dash of cumin
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 Tbs. minced fresh dill
1. Mix the beets with the yogurt, shallots, cumin, salt and pepper to taste. The mixture should be a bit chunky, not a smooth puree.
2. Refrigerate for three to four hours. Finish with a sprinkle of dill.
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Last Updated ( Friday, 09 June 2006 )
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