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Rock climbing around Lake Tahoe |
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Written by Greyson Howard/Tahoe World
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Tuesday, 10 July 2007 |
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Lake Tahoe… a paradise for skiing, snowboarding, biking, hiking, and boating — isn’t always the first place people think of when it comes to climbing.
It may not be the granite amusement park of Yosemite Valley, but the area’s bolders and slabs are nothing to shake a carabiner at. With rock faces from Donner Summit to South Lake Tahoe, there’s an aproach for every climber from novice to master.
“The Tahoe area is definitely growing in popularity,” said Brent Cutler, owner of The Sports Exchange in Truckee. “Tahoe is becoming more of a climbing destination than it used to be.”
Climbing’s popularity is on the rise both nationally and locally, and for good reason.
A sport for anybody to enjoy, those with vertical aspirations can tackle any level of difficulty, and go at their own pace.
“Climbers can be high school kids that are the snowboarder type, or a guy who lived and climbed here for 40 years and put up the original routes,” Cutler said. “Anybody can go out there and climb.”
 WHERE TO GO
Whether you are looking for bouldering, sport climbing, or going traditional, these locations cater to the climber’s style and skill level.
Lover’s Leap
Located off Highway 50 near Strawberry, Lover’s Leap is a classic Tahoe climbing area. Royal Robbins, who gained world fame for his climbing exploits in Yosemite, put up routes at Lover's Leap 40 years ago. Those same routes still draw climbers from all over, and this area is well known for its challenge. There are single and multiple pitch routes, with lots of variety for everyone.
Donner Summit
The largest climbing area in the region is Donner Summit, located off old Highway 40 west of Truckee. With about 400 different routes and more being added all the time, this area has virtually endless possibilities for any climber.
Twin Crags
Just north of Tahoe City on Highway 89. This is a good beginner area for those looking to gain some experience. Because it is south facing, Twin Crags is one of the first to be clear of snow in the region and some people actually climb here year-round.
90-Foot Wall
In Eagle Creek Canyon near Emerald Bay, the wall is actually only 75 feet, but this is the preferred place for novice climbers to gain experience. The variety this wall offers guarantees beginning climbers will not be without a challenge for some time.
Click here to watch a video of locals climbing on 90-Foot Wall
D.L. Bliss
Along with fine views of the lake, D.L. Bliss State Park offers a scattering of boulders off of Highway 89. The majority of bouldering is of a greater difficulty, so if a warm-up on large holds is more appealing, drive into the park for cleaner pieces of granite full of ample deck problems and traverses in a quiet, forested setting.
Split Rock
Size isn’t everything. Split Rock, hidden at the west end of Donner Memorial State Park, is about as big as a two-car garage, but offers almost every style of climbing imaginable, within about 25 climbs. Donner Memorial State Park is on Donner Pass Road, at the East end of Donner Lake.
GEAR
What a beginner needs
Shoes: Look for a confortable, secure, and stiff climbing shoe to start.
While the pro may size down to a toe-curling fit, beginners can start comfy, said Brent Cutler, owner of The Sports Exchange in Truckee.
Buy (or rent) lace-ups instead of slip-ons or Velcro for a more secure foot, along with a stiffer sole to take the strain off of untrained foot and calf muscles.
As with any footwear from running shoes to snowboard boots, fit is key.
Price: $80 to $120
Harness: Comfort and durability are the key traits of a beginner’s climbing harness, Cutler said.This means padded and overbuilt, not light-and-lean like an the harness in a pro’s kit.
Price: $40 to $60
Belay: For nearly idiot-proof operation (for someone trained with the device), an auto-locking Petzl Grigri adds an extra layer of safety when your buddy drops unexpectedly.
Not as cheap as some manual devices, this will set you back about $80.
What an expert wants
Shoes: Now that you have your super-ripped calves and rock-hardened feet, a softer, more flexible shoe will create a higher degree of sensitivity to what is going on under-foot, Cutler said.
Harness: The harness around an advanced user’s waist spends less time holding the climber, and more time holding gear. This means getting away with lighter, more streamlined harnesses not bulky with padding, Cutler said.
Price: About $80
Belay: For the intermediate to advanced user, preference defines the device of choice. Some experienced users still prefer the extra safety of a Grigri, but a lighter, cheaper manual device will suffice when the user knows what he or she is doing.
Price: $20
LOCAL GEAR SHOPS
Alpenglow Sports:
415 North Lake Boulevard
Tahoe City, CA 96145
The Back Country:
Tahoe City store
690 North Lake Boulevard
Tahoe City, CA 96145
Truckee store
11400 Donner Pass Road
Truckee, CA 96161
Granite Chief:
Truckee store
11368 Donner Pass Road
Truckee, CA 96161
Squaw Valley Store
1750 Village East Road
Olympic Valley, CA 96146
Sports exchange:
10095 West River Street
Truckee, CA 96161
Tahoemountainsports.com:
8645 North Lake Boulevard, Suite 14
Kings Beach, CA 96143
WHO TO LEARN FROM
The Sports Exchange
indoor climbing
Alpine Skills International
NASTC North American Ski Training Center
VIDEO FOOTAGE
Click here to watch a video of locals climbing on 90-Foot Wall
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Last Updated ( Thursday, 12 July 2007 )
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