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Chow: A day in the life of Wolfdale's |
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Written by Douglas Dale/Chef and Owner of Wolfdale's
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Wednesday, 19 December 2007 |
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[Editor’s note: We asked Douglas Dale to give us a behind-the-scenes look at what a day in the restaurant industry is like. He went above and beyond, providing a real glimpse into his daily routine as well as a couple recipes straight out of the Wolfdale’s kitchen.]
7:30 a.m. — Arrive at Wolfdale’s kitchen
Once again, start by cleaning up the bear’s midnight dumpster dinner. He’s a messy customer. Get into kitchen to pull trout out of overnight brine, lay it out to dry, then smoke it this afternoon. Check overnight veal stock — will use it to braise pork shanks. Get them into oven. Sign and stuff checks and mail at post office.
8 a.m. — Exercise
Go to aikido class for two hours. I must get exercise regularly to relieve stress and stay fit enough for physically demanding kitchen work.
10 a.m. — Winterizing
Run to Swigard’s Hardware for restaurant repairs. Something always needs to be fixed.
 Noon — Quickly stop in
Pull braising pork out of oven. Check ice machine. Look at advance reservations. Is there enough food for tonight? Check dairy, produce, seafood and meat orders. Check quantity and quality of orders. Start thinking strategy for tonight’s menu. What’s special? What’s limited? What is the best cooking technique for Mexican sea bass?
Start writing this article. We are now using fall recipes. Two of my favorites are: Sweet Mama Squash Soup and Pumpkin Crème Brûlée (see bottom of this story).
2 p.m. — Return phone calls
We have three great new purveyors, all of which are highly involved in sustainable practices, awareness of their carbon footprint and striving to provide an all natural product. Their products can be expensive but it is necessary to patronize companies that think about the future. Also, I am returning calls to party inquiries for summer of 2008. I must explain that due to the possible parking garage construction impact directly behind Wolfdale’s, we cannot book any outdoor parties for the summer of 2008.
3 p.m. — Weekly manager meeting
Topics include: any weekly problems, employee training, repairs, upcoming special events, weekly schedules, office issues, inventory, purchasing and menu ideas for food, wine, and bar, retail items, the holidays, the 2-for-1 promotion and our off-season calendar. Lastly, create a memo from the managers meeting that is hung for all employees to read.
 3 p.m. — Kitchen prep starts
Bread dough for tonight’s dinner rolls must start on time every day. Desserts, soups, stocks, sauces, cutting seafood, meat, vegetables, garnishes and numerous small items are all on today’s prep list. Thorough prep equals a smooth night in the kitchen.
3 p.m. — Hostess arrives
She unlocks front door for reservations and retail sales, answers the phone and puts tonight’s seating chart together. She arranges flowers and regularly informs kitchen of tonight’s anticipated volume and special requests.
3:30 p.m. — Floor set up person starts
They vacuum, sweep, mop, clean windows, set tables, stock wines, fill ice buckets, fold napkins, polish silverware and stemware.
4:45 p.m. — Employee staff dinner
Bouillabaisse and salad is served. Tonight’s menu is printed and point of sale is updated.
 5 p.m. — Bar opens
Bartender gets first customers for cocktails. Waiters gather in kitchen to ask menu questions about product sources, portion sizes and presentation. Hostess hangs the VIP list of tonight’s customers in kitchen for Douglas and floor staff to reference. Birthdays and anniversaries are not forgotten. Ideally a new customer, through good food and personal service, becomes a regular customer.
5:30 p.m. — Kitchen opens for food service
6:30 p.m. — It is ‘Game Time’
The point of sale printer on the kitchen line is starting to print almost constantly. First seating concentration starts, chefs start to move faster, cooking many things at once. Three line chefs and pastry chef all working very fast. Getting hot in the kitchen. Goal is no mistakes. Must get it right the first time.
 I am coordinating timing with all the chefs. I keep my head up for overview and down to help plate. I’m paying attention to special requests, doneness. I push everyone but try to stay calm. This is prime time. Getting waiters attention to assure that hot food goes out quickly is an ongoing chant.
Everyone’s blood pressure is up. Eyes are wide open. It is very intense. The sound is sizzle, the touch is hot and the smells are fantastic. I joke around as things are going well to ease the stress. We are very busy but the menu is balanced and food is looking great. I keep saying, “Badabing, I’d eat that.”
8 p.m. — Second seating underway
Hostess tells kitchen of additional walk-ins. Suddenly, an entire glass tray is dropped. The large crashing sound gets everyone’s attention and the whole area must be cleaned and fast. Oddly, I’m not upset because they recover quickly and no one is hurt.
Back on the line, there are numerous mistakes: tickets not fired, plates went to the wrong table. I’m ready to freak but decide to just work faster. We get out of the big jam one step at a time.
 I quickly take my apron off to go to the dining room to deliver a reheated entrée to a customer that then says, “now it is too hot.” The husband rolls his eyes at me so I smile and say “take your time, enjoy your dinner.” I then thank numerous customers for coming in. We know about half the people in tonight. We often call it the Wolfdale’s Country Club.
I can’t help but think about the juxtaposed intensity in the kitchen. It would terrify the average person. In the dining room customers seem genuinely pleased. So I relax a bit. The hostess, waiters, backs, and bartenders are all very busy but it is going very smoothly on the floor, so they too are enjoying the night and it is transmitting back to the customers. Good vibes.
10 p.m. — Kitchen closed
Last few tickets are on the line and the last table number is declared by hostess.
10:30 p.m. — Kitchen staff takes their dinner break
They are having fish and chips with their own extra hot chili sauce. They eat well but seem too tired to talk.
11:00 p.m. — Socializing with last of customers
Bar now busy with the night owls, kitchen cleaning, dishes, pots and pans, making prep lists and starting to call in orders for next day. Hostess gives us next day’s reservation count, which looks busy so we have a lot to do. Cannot forget anything on prep list or orders.
11:30 p.m. to Midnight — Finishing up
 Waiters finishing checkouts and heading to the bar for their after-shifter. Time to tell their tales of ‘The Big Night,’ share lessons learned, apologize, loosen neckties and start to relax. Kitchen floor is mopped, orders placed, garbage and empty bottles taken out to recycle. Bin locked tight for the habitual bear. Somehow he always gets what he wants. He’s a regular customer too. Manager is going through closing procedures, Z outs, alarms set, heat and lights off, doors locked.
Final thoughts
Restaurant life is all consuming. Today the players and pieces came together. We are always learning. It’s a work in progress but it’s time to go home. Nurture family life. Find a balance. Go spend time with very supporting wife and kids. They work at Wolfdale’s too. We try not to bring work home with us.
Go out for a hike, bike ride or ski. Enjoy Tahoe outdoor life. I sit in a hot tub every night. Look up at the endless stars and dream. My world is small but I love Tahoe City and my life here. I’m grateful for my little “mountain restaurant.” Every day is different and challenging. I have a place to express my compassion for my community. It started on March 3, 1978 but it is still day to day. Goodnight.
Recipes
Kabocha — Sweet Mama Squash Soup
Ingredients:
2 large kabocha squash (baked)
3 yellow onions (medium diced)
1 carrot (diced)
2 apples (peeled, cored, diced)
2 Tablespoons garlic (minced)
2 Tablespoons ginger (diced)
1/4 Cup Apple Jack
1 Cup white wine
1/2 gallon vegetable or chicken stock
1/4 cup honey
1/2 tablespoon star anise powder
1/2 tablespoon cinnamon powder
salt and pepper to taste
Method:
Cut Kabocha squash in half, take out seeds, brush inside with olive oil and honey. Bake at 350 degrees F approximately one hour until soft. Sauté vegetables, apples, ginger and garlic in olive oil and salt. Carve out squash meat and add to sautéed vegetables. Add white wine and reduce. Yields about two gallons so reduce as desired. Burn off Apple Jack alcohol in separate saucepan and add to vegetables.
Add approximately two quarts vegetable stock or chicken stock to vegetables for desired thickness. You can always add more to thin later. Season with honey, star anise powder, cinnamon, salt and pepper to taste. Puree, strain and garnish creatively.
Pumpkin Crème Brûlée
 Ingredients:
2 cups heavy cream
1 vanilla bean (split)
2-3 ounces sugar
10 egg yolks (beaten)
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon allspice
1/8 teaspoon powdered ginger
1 cup pumpkin puree
1 cup sugar (or as needed for tops)
Method:
Combine the heavy cream, vanilla and half the sugar, bring to a boil. Combine the egg yolks and remaining sugar. Add a third of the hot liquid to the egg mixture, stir constantly. Add the egg yolk mixture to the remaining hot cream, stir constantly. Stir in the cinnamon, allspice and ginger. Fold in the pumpkin puree.
Fill ramekins 7/8 full, place in a water bath. (Place ramekins in a deep roasting pan and fill pan with enough water to reach halfway up sides of ramekins, keep level.)
Bake in a 325 degree F oven until just barely set, cool 30 minutes, chill overnight.
Cover the surface of each custard with 1/8 inch of sugar.
Caramelize sugar under a broiler but a torch is more fun.
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Last Updated ( Thursday, 20 December 2007 )
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