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Written by Kara Fox/Tahoe World
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Monday, 05 June 2006 |
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 Now that the snow is finally melting off in higher elevations, it’s time to break out the rope, climbing shoes and harness and jump on a rock. This season’s new gear for rock climbing and bouldering has taken some leaps forward, especially for advanced climbers, according to Aaron Zanto at Alpenglow in Tahoe City.
Whether you’re in the market for new climbing shoes, a longer rope, a better pack or tight new gadgets, look no further.
Zanto leads us through this year’s hot gear for climbing fanatics and informs us of new trends in the sport.
ROPES
LIGHTEST: Mammut’s Serenity 60 m single line is the “lightest, smallest diameter on the market.” This light, skinny rope is ideal for sport climbing or alpine climbing. It goes for $230.
WILL TAKE A BEATING: Axis by Edelweiss is the way to go for longer climbs. At 70 m with a thick sheath, this is the rope to take to Owens River Gorge. Zanto says longer ropes are becoming the norm, as are bi-colored ropes. And for $159.95, you’re pocket book won’t take too much of a beating.
HARNESSES
PULL AND GO: Black Diamond and Mammut have both caught on this year to Petzl’s “no double-backing” harness design. Just pull the straps and you’re set. Especially ideal for women who need “to go” often. Black Diamond offers its Focus Speed for $74.95, and Mammut’s New Wave for men and Lotus for women both go for $45.
SHOES
SPORT CLIMBING: The “hottest shoe on the market,” according to Zanto, is FiveTen’s Galileo. It has stealth onyx rubber that is stickier and lasts longer. The same rubber, by the way, that’s on the Anasazi that Chris Sharma wears. It’s great for steep lines and is only $129.
BEST FOR BOULDERING: Montrail’s Method boasts super sticky rubber and a new heel. Put it in the oven, then put it on your foot and it molds to your heel. All for $80 clams.
GOOD BUY: Montrail’s answer for an $80 sport shoe is the Index. It is a traditional sport climbing shoe that has a similar heel as the Method.
PACKS
FOR BEGINNERS: Black Diamond’s little red and black number, the Boa Duffle, is a perfect cragging and top roping pack. With a tarp included, all you need is to throw in your top rope and go. It’s low maintenance and for $59.95, it’s a steal.
ALL CLEANED UP: The Jackal by Black Diamond is a classic tube pack with no frills. There are no extra straps on the outside, and a zipper in the back is nicely hidden. There’s enough room to fit a double rack, rope, shoes and a harness. Your helmet can also be strapped to the top. It’s a great cragging or alpine pack that is nice and light. It’s $139.95.
NEW KID ON THE BLOCK: Patagonia is getting into the business of making packs and introduces the dark green Gritty Pack. For $165, you get clean seems, compression that goes up the middle of the pack, a strap that can be used to hook the rope in and a pack that can be doubled as a ski pack in the winter.
GUIDES
BEST ON THE MARKET: The must have gadget for advanced climbers this year is Black Diamond’s ATC guide. For $24.95, this tool allows you “to belay your second with a virtually hands-off,” according to Zanto. It has added friction in the belay as opposed to other guides and you use it like a regular ATC, but you have added friction. It also makes it easier to lower your second and easier for leading multi-pitched climbs. This guide replaces the Reverso by Petzl that hit the market three years ago.
CAMALOTS
NARROWER AND BETTER: This season’s Metolius TCU is 30-percent lighter than last year’s and has a narrower head and is great for thin cracks. “It’s shaving off millimeters and is a lot lighter,” Zanto notes. It goes for $49.50.
FOR HARD-CORE CLIMBERS: Black Diamond once again takes the cake as it has devised a “revolutionary” device that boasts compression springs that push each cam independently with greater force so they hold better in tough placements. The u-stem design provides a balanced combination of stiffness and flexibility that, combined with the narrower head, makes the $69.50 worth it.
All photos by Ryan Salm/Tahoe World
www.ryansalmphotography.com
Top to bottom: Kurt Beckering on Donner Summit; Martin Cavada holds on tight while bouldering on Donner Summit; shoes; packs; Aaron Zanto demonstrates the upgraded functions of Black Diamond's new ATC; Black Diamond C3 Camalot next to the Black Diamond ATC; Kurt Beckering tops out a 25ft boulder problem as the rain begins to fall on Donner Summit
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Last Updated ( Monday, 05 June 2006 )
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